Arrival After 23 Days at Sea
With our produce dwindled but our spirits high, we made landfall after 23 days from our last anchorage in Mexico (Los Frailles) and 30 days from Puerto Penasco.
First Stop: Hiva Oa
We debated about where to first check in to French Polynesia–Hiva Oa or Nuka Hiva. Many cruisers also make their first stop in Fatu Hiva, but there is no where to check in to the country–and it’s touchy subject in the cruising community because even if a boat raises the yellow quarantine flag, this means technically no one can disembark. After almost a month at sea, I can promise you that every sailor’s first priority is to get off the boat. Haha…
And going to Nuka Hiva means sailing past the very first sight of land (Hiva Oa). We were not about to do this; stretching our legs, enjoying a cool Hinano beer, and not preparing our own meal were our top priorities.
First Impressions
Stunning dramatic mountains, lush green foliage, humidity that had us dripping in sweat: what a transition from Mexico!
First of all, the anchorage was probably the worst we have ever experienced; it was crowded and so rolly that we had to time our steps on and off the boat because we worried about getting injured (no joke!). At one point from the dinghy, we could see our boat’s entire keel because it was rocking back and forth so hard. Note: we had to anchor outside the break wall–but many cruisers complain about the swell inside the breakwater, too.
When we hauled jerry cans back to the boat full of fuel, Kevin was so worried about transferring the cans on to the boat that we decided to leave them in the dinghy and pull the dinghy behind us to get out of the anchorage.
Sensory Overload
However, feeling land beneath our feet was amazing! We didn’t know it would take 2.5 miles to get to town, but we enjoyed seeing the horses, smelling the flowers, and feeling the warm sunshine on our walk to town. The only surprise was the lack of open restaurants! Not many places here are open for lunch.
Neighboring Island: Tahuata
The smallest of the Marquesas, Tahuata can only be reached by boat. It’s also a short sail from Hiva Oa and offers our first glimpse of South Pacific bliss.
Our Favorite Anchorage: Vaitahu
The second anchorage on Tahuata is one of most memorable, mainly because we allowed ourselves plenty of time to enjoy land and sea.
The valley in Vaitahu, which is prone to fog, helped keep the temperature cool on the boat. It is also where we enjoyed our first Marquesan meal, complete with crabs, Poisson Cru (a fish ceviche marinated in coconut broth), roasted pig, pan-fried bread fruit, and more. Chez Jimmy, who owns the restaurant where we shared our first Tahitian meal with fellow sailors, also took us to his house. I wanted to buy a box of fruit from him…and when we arrived the day after our meal, he ushered us to his off-road jeep and up to his mountain home. Check out all of the amazing fruit he picked for us!
Up Next: Fatu Hiva, the most iconic anchorage in the world
We made the short sail to Fatu Hiva after exploring 3 of the anchorages at Tahuata. We probably had the highest expectations of F.H. because all of the iconic photos of the Marquesan islands seem to be of this particular island.
Boy, it did not disappoint. The dramatic anchorage, with its phallic rock formations and deep rich ocean colors seized our breath. Truly, I cannot imagine any anchorage more stunning in its originality.
Up Next, Part 2: Ua Pou and Nuka Hiva
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